Heating Cap Twists, A Testimonial About Jane Carter Nourish and Shine


Last week, my client came in to purchase products, and we were talking about the various uses of butters in the hair. She does twistouts for her daughter and wanted to know why butters tend to lay on the hair in a twistout and if there was a way to get the butter to penetrate. I explained to her that the butter is a sealant for the hair to hold in the layers of moisture underneath. I told her to try some form of heat on the butter to make it smoother on the hair and gave her several sample products to try.

Today, this client came back  and told me she used Jane Carter Nourish and Shine to twist her daughter’s hair and she sat under a heating cap for penetration. While she was here, her daughter called to give the results of the twistout. The daughter was on speakerphone raving about her hair and how soft and defined her twists were with the heat from the heating cap and the Nourish and Shine. Even the day after, she said her hair was still very soft and manageable, exactly the result she was looking for.

I will have to try this technique in the salon and post a “how to” to get the best results.

As a cosmetologist, I am always glad to help. ❤ Ally

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7 Regimen Shortcuts Without Sacrificing Healthy Hair


Over the past few weeks, I’m learning what it is like to not have the 4 hours I used to have to do my hair. I used to be able to take all morning washing, conditioning, sitting under the dryer…all at my leisure. Now I’m in spritz and go mode and scratch it as it itches haha. But I have developed some shortcuts that may be helpful to someone looking to shorten their hair routine. 
1. The most significant change I made was to wear my hair in a twisted updo. I still wash and condition every week-week and a half or so, but I keep it up and out-of-the-way so the only thing I have to style in the morning is the bang. I was surprised that detangling my hair was not so bad after not washing my hair for almost 2 weeks. I did have about double the shedding I normally have, which still was not a lot of hair. Keeping my hair stretched in this protective style has helped with the detangling I think. I keep my spray bottle close when I need to spritz and re-twist my protective style.
2. To save time on styling my hair into the protective style, as I detangle my hair, I place my partings where I want them in the style so I don’t have to re-part my hair after I put my curl cream on. Re-parting can cause the hair to shrink and curl back up and results in lost time trying to re-stretch the hair.
3. The next discovery I made in the salon…My edges were out of control, and I just wanted something to tack it down. So I used the American Crew pomade for men that I had in the salon. Did the trick! Why buy an expensive edge control gel when you may already have something that works in your home (or salon)?
4. The next thing I did was to trim my ends. I want to make sure that even though I don’t have the time to do certain things to my hair, I need to stick to the foundation of what will keep my hair healthy. So I just put my hair into 4 sections and trimmed about a 1/2 inch off each section. I’m not concerned about layering and all of that since my hair is up in a protective style.
5. I also colored my hair back down to a level 4-I thought it was going to have a brighter red/violet look, but that’s alright. By going back to a tone that is close to my natural level, I don’t have to worry about coloring it for a while, which saves me time. And it allows my hair time to grow and come back healthy when I’m ready to color it in the spring.

6. Use sample sizes as travel sizes and keep your most useful styling product handy in case of an emergency. Jane Carter Solution was gracious enough to send me samples of their Curl Defining Creme and their Nourish and Shine, and I keep one of each in my purse! They give just enough product to smooth and place a set style to keep it looking finished.

7. Try head wraps! I received my Fanm Djanm headwraps last week, and they were right on time. I followed the YouTube tutorial on how to tie it, and within a minute or two I had a professional, attractive style for work.

As we know, there are things you just can not skip, like thorough washing, conditioning well, and using the right products to keep your hair moisturized. That is non-negotiable.
 But everything else can be managed. Even on shorter hair, headbands and hair ornaments go a long way to make a style look polished. I hope these tips were helpful, and if I come up with any more, I will update the post.
Please feel free to comment on this post! ❤ Ally

 

 

Proof Positive-The Driest Hair Can Be Revived With The Right Product Line For Your Hair Type


This is my daughter Jasmine :). She will be 16 and is as stubborn as a mule. But thankfully for me, she has always wanted her hair natural. She has 4C texture hair and it is low porosity. She has been using store-bought products which, as you can see, have left her hair extremely dry. I was at my wits end when I remembered that I had tried a sample pack of Qhemet Biologics products over a year ago, and I knew it was designed for her hair texture. So I ordered some for the salon and as soon as I got it, I strapped her down in the chair like a patient (jokes) and went to work.

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The Picture of Product Buildup 

The Qhemet Biologics line got it right with moisture-rich products that are not thick and gummy. I used to be under the misconception that a conditioning product had to be heavy and thick to work. Not so with this line. My daughters hair has the tightly closed cuticle, so the lightness of Qhemet Biologics conditioning ghee and detangling ghee allows the product to penetrate deeply to separate and detangle the  hair. Then we applied the heavy cream and massaged it into her hair, sat her under the dryer for 15-20 minutes, and finished with a shine spray. Her hair is back to life!!!

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Products Used: Qhemet Biologics Moringa Tree Conditioning Ghee, Qhemet Biologics Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee, Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream

She agreed to let me care for her hair every week. She may even let me give her regular trims, but I won’t press my luck. Teenagers, gotta love ’em!

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My girl ❤

 

Please let me know what you think! Contact me for information about Qhemet Biologics in my salon! ❤ Ally

Protective Styling Season


Everyone needs a break from their hair. Protective style options are a great way to take a break. However, if your goal is to grow long natural hair, I suggest transitioning out of added hair and have your own hair put into a protective style once it reaches a medium length. As the hair grows, the protective style braids, twists, etc should become bigger. Less parting equals less stress points on the hair. Less weight in the hair equals less stress on the hair.

 When I went to Lake Tahoe for a few days with my kids, I twisted my hair up because I did not want to deal with it on the road.
2 Strand Twists

 

When I took the twists down, I had a nice wavy twistout that was elegant looking. Once I washed my hair, it was more dry than normal from the blowout. But the recovery, shedding and hair loss were close to normal, and what I would expect for the twist style. I have never had hair added since I have been natural. It is my preference not to add the hair. For me, it would be too tempting to leave the style in for too long and risk my already thirsty high porosity hair falling out. So many protective styles can be achieved on the hair we have. I plan on experimenting with some throughout the fall/winter months, and of course, I will share the results!

Please let me know what you think! ❤ Ally

 

Toning It Down For Fall


Summer to Fall Hair

After a summer of heavy bleach abuse on my hair, it was time to take it down a notch. I still find it incredible that when my hair was relaxed, any time I tried to color it, my hair would be breaking off the next week. Now, I can lighten and color, all with care and proper moisture balance, and still have a healthy hair journey.

Color Preparation For the Hair

To prepare my hair for color, I deep conditioned my hair two days before I applied the color filler, as explained below. I put a small amount of leave-in conditioner on my hair, but no curl cream because it could impede the color from processing correctly.

2-Step Color Process in Detail

I achieved this more natural hair color look in a 2 step process:

1. Use a color filler for highlights so the dye will hold in the hair.

When lightener is applied to the hair, the lightener removes the pigmentation in the hair strand, causing it to become blonde over the processing time. In order to darken the hair again, a preliminary filler should be used, which replaces some pigment by processing it back into the hair strands.

My filler was a level 7 dark blonde color with 10 volume developer applied to the highlights only. I allowed that to process for 30 minutes, rinsed, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry. The following day I applied the final color, explained in the next step.

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Hair with Filler Color Applied

2. Allow filler to set and apply final color process.

After 24 hours, the filler color was sufficiently set into my hair. Because I used low volume developer, a second color process would pose a minimal risk of damage to my hair. For the final color, I used a combination of level 5 color for my new growth and feathered it into the midshaft, and a level 7 color for the ends to give the hair some natural dimension with 10 volume developer. After 45 minutes of processing time (for those stubborn grays), I washed my hair normally and prepared it for styling.

Styling and Care for New Color

Before I colored my hair, I cut more layers into it by using the controlled-shape trim method . After a color process I do not like to band my hair tightly or restrict the hair from drying because it may adversely affect the color. After applying my curl cream, I banded my hair very loosely and allowed it to air dry. I removed the bands when my hair was damp and wore it out the rest of the day. I loosely banded my hair into a pineapple for overnight care. The hair should not be washed for at least 48 hours after a color process to allow the color to set into the hair. I’m loving the color and shape of my hair more and more as it grows!

10687092_698111496946420_7113387743878984591_nAll smiles!

Please let me know if this information was helpful! Ally

We Mix: My Wash-n-Band Method with Low Manipulation


I never got into the routine of doing twistouts. I tried two-strand and three-strand twists. I tried them on wet hair, damp hair, and dry hair. I tried everything, but I just couldn’t get into all the manipulation involved, especially on wash days. So I had to stick with a variation of the wash-n-go which I call a wash-n-band. There is no real method to my madness, but I will order the steps I take to achieve the look below.

How to execute a Wash-n-Band

1. Perform your normal wash day routine.

2. After applying leave-in conditioner to wet hair, part hair into four sections and tie a no-snag elastic at the base of the head in each section without causing pulling of the hair or causing discomfort. Tie the ends of the hair loosely with small rubber band at the ends.

3. Apply a generous amount of curl cream (preferably with hold) to midshaft and ends of hair while in the ponytails, and squeeze the product into the hair to distribute the product within the hair but do not squeeze the product out of the hair.

4. When hair is 50% dry, loosen the base elastic as depicted in the picture below and allow hair to dry to 80%. This allows the hair to be stretched but still form a wave pattern to blend with the ends of the hair.

5. When hair is 80% dry, remove the base elastic but leave the end elastics on and allow to almost completely dry.

6. When almost completely dry, remove end elastics and shake hair or manually manipulate to separate. Carefully use a wide-tooth comb to blend the partings. In the bottom picture, I took two pieces of hair from the left side and pulled them through the right side to hide the middle parting.

 

Banding Method

 

To maintain this look past day 1, use your partings as a guide to loosely band the hair at night. The next day, lightly mist any band marks with a water bottle and smooth the hair with hands. Lightly spray ends of hair, apply a small amount of curl cream, and squeeze ends to form a curling pattern.

Control of the Hair

In cosmetology school, the concept of control of the hair was drilled into our heads. With natural hair, it is of even greater importance to have control of the hair at all times to minimize tangling and breakage and to retain length. The wash-n-band helps me to achieve a wash-n-go look without excessive shrinkage that can lead to issues down the road.

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Styled hair after wash-n-band

Please let me know if this information was helpful! ❤ Ally

Curl Reversion After Blowout


I gave Lauren a blow out using my Low-Heat Protection Lotion, and she wore her hair mostly in a low ponytail for a week. I would take the ponytail out every other day to comb through it with a wide-tooth comb and apply a butter product to keep it soft. Even with all her running around, her hair stayed mostly straight.

 

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Lauren’s freshly blown out hair 

After a week, it was wash day for her. I wet her hair down and washed her hair with shampoo. The shampoo sat on her hair about 15 minutes and then rinsed. I applied the Lite’G Oatmeal Water Conditioner and left it on for an hour. When I detangled with the conditioner on, her hair felt soft and I detected no damage. I did notice that curls at the ends of her hair had loosened. When I did some online research about low-heat on hair, I found a great article about heat-training, which is the loosening that happens when even low-heat is used on the hair. Because I don’t blow out her hair often, I know her curl memory will return. Curl memory is how your hair can hold a curl pattern according to the way you continuously style your hair. (NapturallyCurly.com) We are both enjoying the temporary loosening of her curls and she can wear her hair out, which she loves! All’s well that ends well.

Curl Reversion

Lauren’s freshly detangled hair after blowout…The shrinkage is crazy!

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Curls are dry and defined 

Please let me know if this information was helpful! ❤ Ally

Blowout Results with Low-Heat Protection Lotion


The last time I did a blowout on my daughter was about two years ago. I used Biosilk on her hair, a very expensive silicone-based serum. The results were nice, but the coating of the Biosilk had me concerned about dryness and breakage. With cost of the product and the concern for damage to her hair, I wasn’t willing to make blow outs a frequent styling option for her. But with the Low-Heat Protection Lotion Recipe , I feel confident that I can blow out my daughter’s hair safely and without the extra expense of a commercially-made product.

I had to butter up my baby with a pastry from the coffee shop for her to let me blow out her hair. But the results were well worth it. I wet her hair down with water and squeezed the excess water from her hair, but did not towel dry.  It was still damp when I applied approximately 3 1/2 teaspoons of the Low-Heat Protection Lotion on her entire head. I used about 1 teaspoon per ponytail with the most used on the thickest sections of her head. Instead, she sat with a towel around her shoulders and her hair air dried for about an hour.

Low Heat Protection Lotion 4 Low Heat Protection Lotion 5

I performed the blowout taking small 1-inch sections of damp hair and smoothing the lotion through with a comb. Then I stretched the hair with my hand and blow dried it on the warm setting to 90% dry. Once the hair was relatively straight, I used a round brush to fully straighten and dry her hair. Not one whiff of burnt hair or one wisp of smoke came from her head. After a trim, she was all smiles!

Low Heat Protection Lotion 7Low Heat Protection Lotion 8

My daughter’s hair felt very soft but not oily. I was surprised that I didn’t have to wash my hands of any oil or product after finishing the blowout. I just rinsed them with water and was good.

From this point, I have so many more styling options for her hair. I can flat-iron the ends for a finished look, braid it up, or give her a soft ponytail (that’s what she wanted). I think she will let me experiment with her hair more now, but I won’t press my luck too soon.

 

 

 

High Puff To Hide New Growth


Color Retouch

I will be retouching my hair this weekend and posting a more extensive article about it so check the blog for that coming soon! Puff styles hide regrowth until you can get your color retouched. In this picture, my hair looks well blended, but in fact, I have at least a half-inch of new growth! To tie a puff without losing hair, start by separating out a bang area if you choose. Tie a silky scarf carefully around the hair and gently tighten, paying attention to smooth snagged hairs. Arrange the bang neatly so that any parts are  not visible. Simple as that!