Proof Positive-The Driest Hair Can Be Revived With The Right Product Line For Your Hair Type


This is my daughter Jasmine :). She will be 16 and is as stubborn as a mule. But thankfully for me, she has always wanted her hair natural. She has 4C texture hair and it is low porosity. She has been using store-bought products which, as you can see, have left her hair extremely dry. I was at my wits end when I remembered that I had tried a sample pack of Qhemet Biologics products over a year ago, and I knew it was designed for her hair texture. So I ordered some for the salon and as soon as I got it, I strapped her down in the chair like a patient (jokes) and went to work.

IMG_4509

The Picture of Product Buildup 

The Qhemet Biologics line got it right with moisture-rich products that are not thick and gummy. I used to be under the misconception that a conditioning product had to be heavy and thick to work. Not so with this line. My daughters hair has the tightly closed cuticle, so the lightness of Qhemet Biologics conditioning ghee and detangling ghee allows the product to penetrate deeply to separate and detangle the  hair. Then we applied the heavy cream and massaged it into her hair, sat her under the dryer for 15-20 minutes, and finished with a shine spray. Her hair is back to life!!!

IMG_4533

Products Used: Qhemet Biologics Moringa Tree Conditioning Ghee, Qhemet Biologics Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee, Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream

She agreed to let me care for her hair every week. She may even let me give her regular trims, but I won’t press my luck. Teenagers, gotta love ’em!

IMG_4534

 

My girl ❤

 

Please let me know what you think! Contact me for information about Qhemet Biologics in my salon! ❤ Ally

3 Rules to Break When Coloring Natural Hair


I am extremely pleased with the way my color and highlights turned out this time around. But I realized that I didn’t follow three of the most of the cardinal rules of coloring hair. My main interest is in preserving the integrity of the hair and I take every precaution when I use color. The rules that I broke to achieve this look actually benefit the hair!

10505331_674843195939917_816944006308638186_n

My newly highlighted locks

As a cosmetologist, I only use professional color on my hair. The range of options of color are infinite with a good color line and skilled use of lightener. I would advise anyone considering a major color change to have a consultation with a licensed cosmetologist.

Rules to Break!

1. Always Perform a Shampoo Cap or Demi-Permanent  to Prevent a Line of Demarcation

When retouching the regrowth (roots) of the hair with the same level of color that has been previously applied, the rule is to apply color to the regrowth and then either do a shampoo cap or demi-permanent matching color to refresh the previously colored hair. This is to prevent a line of demarcation to show between the freshly colored regrowth and the previously colored hair at the midshaft and ends. That rule can be broken for natural hair! I break this rule for 2 reasons. 1. Overlapping color was causing my hair to become dry and brittle. 2. My hair is high porosity, and it would absorb a lot of expensive product. I tried retouching my regrowth only, and I found that there is no detectable line of demarcation because my hair has a curl pattern that hides it! This is one great way that I save money and save product.

2. Always Thin Weave Hair for a Natural Look

7a95cb3d5ae14126d0c295b111799b09

Image is from a Pinterest site, I do not own this image

Normally, I am not a big fan of stripe highlights or thick weave highlights. Stripe highlights, as shown in the picture above, are created by highlighting alternating partings that are one-quarter to one-half inch thick in the “mohawk” section of the hair. Weave highlights are created by taking one-quarter to one-half inch parting of hair and “weaving” it to break up the harsh stripe line. This can be done in a thick or thin pattern. On straight hair, the rule of thumb is the thinner the weave, the more natural the resulting highlights will look. However with natural hair, I break this rule to get the effect I am looking for. There are 2 reasons why I break this rule. 1. Parting natural hair in a dry state must be done carefully. 2. It is easier to weave, pull apart and control thick weave in natural hair than thin weave in natural hair. The curl pattern of the hair blends the thick weave  and gives the hair a more natural look. This is a great method to get the highlight you want without causing excessive breakage, damage, and tangling.

3. Use Higher Volume Developers to Achieve More Lift in Color

This rule to break is totally a personal rule for my hair that I have arrived at through trial and error. I do not use any developer over 10 Volume in my hair when applying hair color. I have found that at higher volumes, my hair gets extremely dry and damaged. I just know my hair and it’s limitations, and I can live with the trade-off of less color choices to protect the integrity of my hair.With lightener, I was taught that the hair will lift with the lowest volume developer, but it will just take longer to achieve the level desired. In the picture of my hair, I achieved the lightest blonde streaks with lightener and 10 volume developer.

9273_675379059219664_3831284347635272516_n

Hair care is a family affair

I hope you benefit from my rebellious streak and take a chance on hair color!

Please let me know if this information was helpful! ❤ Ally

I Live and Dye by the Strand Test


IMG_2256My strand test method

This is not a new puff style (although it could be), but it is a picture of how I pull my hair up and take sections from the back of my head for strand testing new ingredients. Last night I tested Aritha powder on the left side and Kaolin clay on the right side. I must say that if I had applied the Aritha Powder all over my head without strand testing, I might be doing a big chop today. The powder is very potent and really pulls all the product from your hair, along with the natural oils your hair produces. Since I only used it once, it didn’t do any damage to my hair. However I can see how over time, the Aritha powder is much too drying for my hair. My hair reacted favorably to the Kaolin Clay. I  plan on moving forward with formulating a new recipe with it. But without performing a strand test first, I probably would have had disastrous results from the Aritha powder.

Please let me know if this information was helpful! ❤ Ally 

Banana Coffee Deep Conditioner Recipe


image_1 (1) Before pic, nice and dry (Scroll down for after pic!)

After spending all day in the intense sun yesterday at Santa Cruz, my hair was THIRSTY. I love my Oatmeal Water Conditioner (see under Recipe tab) but I needed to give it some deep conditioning power. There are many banana conditioner recipes out there, but I wanted to build on what I knew works for my hair. I thought of using coffee off the top of my head, did some research, and decided to try it with the banana. I LOVE the results!!!

Ingredients

Prepared Oatmeal Water Conditioner Recipe substituting avocado oil for olive oil (optional)

1/2 overripe banana

2 tablespoons coffee

Banana Coffee Deep Conditioner 1  Overripe bananas and coffee

 

I wanted to include a picture of how ripe my bananas were so you can visualize what I used (Just use 1/2 a banana!). The softness and gooeyness of overripe bananas are perfect for deep-conditioning.

 

To Make

Prepare Oatmeal Water Conditioner Recipe. Cut up the 1/2 of a banana into 1-inch pieces. Add the bananas and coffee to conditioner and use a stick blender to mix. Use immediately.

 

To Use

Apply after shampooing to saturate hair. Cover head with plastic cap and allow to sit for up to 1 hour. This conditioner can be used with a bonnet dryer for deep penetration. Rinse hair and scalp thoroughly until water is clear. Do not use as a leave-in.

 Banana Coffee Deep Conditioner 4

After pic…never thought my hair would blow in the wind 🙂

I would love your feedback on this recipe! ❤ Ally

Why Glycerin and I Don’t Mix



Glycerin Article

I can’t remember the last time it rained

I live in California and it is so HOT and DRY here. We are in the midst of a worsening drought and I can tell by all the dust on my furniture. Now my hair needs extra special attention under these conditions. I need styling products that will seal and hold moisture in as long as possible until I can refresh my hair with spritzing and another layer of sealant. I heard about glycerin and wanted to give it a try so I bought some, mixed it with water, sprayed my hair down, and went about my business. By the end of the day my hair was telling me NO!!! Glycerin is not the move. And I thought, why does it work for so many others and not for me? I dismissed it as just being a hair-type thing until I read how glycerin reacts in dry conditions. Glycerin can attract moisture TO your hair, if there is moisture in the atmosphere. Good for the East Coast Naturalistas that live in a humid environment and need a moisture boost. But if the environment has little to no moisture in the air, like drought-stricken California, then the glycerin will leech the moisture from your hair! I learned a lesson to think about my environment as well as my hair type when I test an ingredient and its effect on my hair. Because of my environment, my recipes for styling products and leave-ins will most likely be glycerin –free.

But feel free to add it to the recipes if it works for your hair! Here’s a link to Amazon.com for purchase.

Why Glycerin and I Don't Mix

Please let me know if this information was helpful! ❤ Ally

 

Chlorine Fighting Pre-Poo Recipe


This was an EMERGENCY. My youngest, Lauren, had come from a field trip to the pool and she had fried, dried, and will never lay-to-the-side hair!!!

Chlorine Fighting Pre Poo Article

 Lauren’s hair before Chlorine Fighting Pre-Poo treatment

I was in panic mode because it was my fault for not properly preparing her hair for the pool. So on a wing and a prayer, I whipped up this recipe to remove the chlorine. In my previous experience with chlorine in my daughter’s hair, it would clump, dry and be unmanageable after applying the shampoo. I would have to pour excess conditioner on her hair to separate and detangle the strands. When I applied the pre-poo, I could immediately see her hair regaining its luster. I kept my fingers crossed, applied the shampoo after the pre-poo treatment, and her hair felt much smoother than in my previous experience. The chlorine was completely removed. With summer starting and pools opening, this recipe is the difference between retaining and losing strands due to dryness and breakage. So why worry…jump in the pool!

Chlorine Fighting Pre Poo Article 2

Lauren’s hair after Chlorine Fighting Pre-Poo treatment

Ingredients

1 tablespoon baking soda

1 cup herb mix (see below for recipe)

1/2 cup aloe vera juice

1 teaspoon safflower oil

———————————————————————————————————————————–

Herb Mix Recipe

1 tablespoon comfrey root

1 tablespoon burdock root

1 cup water

 

To Make

Use a ratio of 1 cup of water to 2 tablespoons of the dried herb. Pour boiling water over herbs and allow to steep 2 hours in a closed container or until room temperature. Strain herbs and discard. Use remaining liquid.


 

Chlorine Fighting Pre-Poo Recipe

One Hour Before

Prepare herb mix.

 

To Make

Combine the herb mix, safflower oil, aloe vera juice, and baking soda in a 2-cup capacity container and stir with a spoon until the baking soda dissolves.  Pour mix carefully into an applicator bottle. Use immediately. Makes about 1 ½ cups.

 

To Use

Wet hair until soaking with lukewarm water to rinse out as much excess chlorine as possible. Allow excess water to drip from hair but do not wring or towel dry. Use an applicator bottle with tip to apply pre-poo to hair until hair is saturated and dripping. Cover head with a plastic cap and allow to sit for up to 15 minutes. Do not allow pre-poo to dry on hair. Rinse thoroughly from hair and scalp until water is clear. Shampoo and condition as normal.

 

Caution

This recipe has a greenish color to it, and it has not been tested on lighter hair or blonde hair. Please strand-test before using to ensure a satisfactory result.

I would love your feedback on this recipe! ❤ Ally